Ingredient storysix plates · drawn 2026 · Kotagiri

Six plants, six places, and what each one is doing in the bottle.

We drew these ourselves, from plants on the farm rather than from a photograph, at the part we buy: seed, whole herb, leaf, root, heartwood, stigma. Each plate carries the botanical name, the section that matters and the share of the formula it accounts for.

What follows is where each one grows, who we buy it from, and the plain reason it is in the serum. Where the reason is “it is the colour”, we say that instead of something grander.

×3 seed, winged
Pl. iSeed

Moringa oleifera Lam.

26.00%

Murungai · Drumstick tree

Part used
Seed, cold-pressed at 38 °C
Grown at
Pennagaram, Dharmapuri · 480 m
Harvest
February to April
Bought from
Sengodan family, 4.2 acres, NPOP certified since 2021

It is the road the rest of the formula travels on. Pods are stripped by hand and the kernels pressed within forty hours of shelling, cold, so the oil stays pale and never goes waxy. On skin it is gone in about forty seconds. That is the entire reason it is a quarter of the bottle.

The trees are never cut back for the pods. A 26-year-old moringa is worth more standing.

×4 margin
Pl. iiWhole herb above the root

Centella asiatica (L.) Urb.

8.00%

Vallarai · Indian pennywort

Part used
Whole herb above the root, shade-dried nine days
Grown at
Selur nadu, Kolli Hills, Namakkal · 1,050 m
Harvest
November to January, a fortnight after the rain stops
Bought from
Twelve growers, through the Kolli Hills growers' collective

Cut by hand while the leaf is still soft, then dried in shade for nine days — never sun, which turns the infusion the colour of tea. We steep it in the gingelly oil for six weeks in glass rather than pulling it out with a solvent. It is why the serum smells faintly of wet grass.

Kolli Hills vallarai has a smaller, thicker leaf than the plains kind. We pay about 40% more for it.

kernel×2 drupe, in section
Pl. iiiLeaf

Azadirachta indica A. Juss.

2.00%

Vembu · Neem

Part used
Leaf, first flush
Grown at
Kalayarkoil, Sivagangai · 90 m
Harvest
March to May, in the first week after the flush
Bought from
Seventy-one bund and roadside trees, mapped and paid per kilo

Picked while the leaflets are still pale and soft, and used within four days. Two per cent is a ceiling we set ourselves: above that, neem is the only thing anyone can smell, and the serum stops being a serum and starts being a remedy.

We do not buy neem leaf powder. It is almost always last year's leaf.

×20 root, transverse
Pl. ivRoot

Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty

0.90%

Vettiver · Khus

Part used
Root, copper-distilled over eight hours
Grown at
Bhavani, Erode · 180 m
Harvest
January, before the river rises
Bought from
Four families who have distilled on the Bhavani bank for three generations

Roots are lifted at eighteen months, washed in river sand and distilled in copper. Younger roots give more oil and less smell, so we pay for the older ones. This is the cool, damp note that sits under everything and keeps the blend from turning sweet.

Eighteen months in the ground for 0.9% of a bottle. It is the slowest thing we buy.

×1 heartwood, 22 y
Pl. vHeartwood

Santalum album L.

0.65%

Chandanam · Indian sandalwood

Part used
Heartwood, steam-distilled
Grown at
Marayoor, Idukki, Kerala · 1,020 m
Harvest
Bought at the January depot auction
Bought from
Kerala Forest Development Corporation depot, Marayoor · transit permit KFD/MRY/2026/0884

Sandalwood is a controlled species, so we say exactly where ours comes from and keep the permit number on the batch record. Six-tenths of a per cent is all a 30 ml bottle needs — it holds the vetiver in place for four or five hours instead of twenty minutes.

We have never bought sandalwood from a private seller and do not intend to.

×6 stigma
Pl. viStigma

Crocus sativus L.

0.15%

Kungumapoo · Saffron

Part used
Stigma, hand-picked at dawn
Grown at
Pampore, Pulwama, Kashmir · 1,585 m
Harvest
Late October, in the four hours after sunrise
Bought from
Eleven growers, direct, through the Pampore trade society

About a hundred and fifty flowers make one gram of dried stigma. There are forty-five milligrams in a bottle — roughly seven flowers. Saffron is the colour of this serum and a small part of its smell. It is not doing anything else, and we are not going to tell you it is.

Kashmir, not Tamil Nadu. The only thing in the bottle we buy from outside the south.

Photograph: the Selur nadu vallarai plot on Kolli Hills at seven in the morning in December, cloud sitting in the valley below, the crop cut in strips so a third of it is always flowering.
What we don't use, and whyfive things

Water

There is none in the bottle. That is why there is no preservative in it either — nothing in an anhydrous oil blend can grow. It also means four drops go further than you expect.

Added fragrance

What you smell is vetiver, then sandalwood, then neem, in that order and in those proportions. Nothing was added to make it smell like anything else.

Mineral oil and silicones

Nothing wrong with either of them. They simply don't do anything the moringa isn't already doing, and they would make the label longer for no reason.

The word “kumkumadi”

Ours contains saffron, and that is where the resemblance stops. Kumkumadi tailam is a specific classical formula with a specific method. Borrowing the name to sell a serum is not something we want to do.

Twelve-week claims

We have not run a twelve-week study, so we are not going to tell you what happens after twelve weeks. If you have a skin condition, a dermatologist is a better use of ₹2,480 than we are.

All thirteen are on the label, in this order, at these numbers.